[J.] We left Kathmandu on Saturday, 5 December for an approx. 7 hour bus ride to Pokhara, only about 200km away. Close to Pokhara, our hiking trip would start the following day.
We chose to go for an all inclusive hiking trip that was organised by Nepal Eco Adventures in Kathmandu including all trecking permits and overnight stays as well as providing us with sleeping bags and hiking poles for me. We asked for one guide and one additional porter carrying one of our backpacks. Both of us would only carry a daypack. Our idea behind having a porter was obviously to not having to carry such a heavy bag up and down the mountains (and as we were hiking along, I was really glad about it) but it also provided an additional income for one more person.
The trek we have chosen is called the Annapurna Panorama Trek and considered one of the easier hikes, only going up to about 3200m. As we were slightly out of the trekking season for this region which runs from October to November and with temperatures in December that can get already quite cold high up the mountains and not having the proper clothing gear for such altitudes, we did not opt for a longer trip going up to 5000m like the Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Base Camp.
We chose to go for an all inclusive hiking trip that was organised by Nepal Eco Adventures in Kathmandu including all trecking permits and overnight stays as well as providing us with sleeping bags and hiking poles for me. We asked for one guide and one additional porter carrying one of our backpacks. Both of us would only carry a daypack. Our idea behind having a porter was obviously to not having to carry such a heavy bag up and down the mountains (and as we were hiking along, I was really glad about it) but it also provided an additional income for one more person.
The trek we have chosen is called the Annapurna Panorama Trek and considered one of the easier hikes, only going up to about 3200m. As we were slightly out of the trekking season for this region which runs from October to November and with temperatures in December that can get already quite cold high up the mountains and not having the proper clothing gear for such altitudes, we did not opt for a longer trip going up to 5000m like the Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Base Camp.
The bus trip to Pokhara was amazing and it became quite apparent that general road conditions, potholes and all other trucks and buses using the same road made this 200km tour a 7hour trip. Driving on this road certainly requires a lot of experience as well as driving skills on another level as overtaking in blind corners are rather the standard then the exception. On one occasion we almost ran into a head-to-head collision, the whole bus going like whooooooaaaaaah! - but nothing happened and I have not seen one accident along the road. Sitting on the right side in tralling direction, the view onto the valley was great and we also saw a white water rafting group, so definitely something to consider when going to Nepal as well. The bus stopped three times along the road for refreshments and little breaks and husband had a lot of fun exploring the food stalls and sampling the street food offerings.
The next day on Sunday, 6 December, we started the trip with a 1.5hour taxi ride to Nayapul (sp?) at about 1000m altitude. The hike started off very relaxed along a dirt road while passing some teahouses selling fruits, food and drinks. Around lunchtime, we were at about 1500 and still with good spirits until we realised that for the rest of the day we were to climb the next 700m uphill by taking 3200 stairs. Wow... I must say, that I do not consider hiking poles the coolest thing on earth but along the trek and with the flu still giving me dry coughs, a blocked and running nose and short breath, I quickly grew very fond of them. We were joking at every corner that it is just another corner we have to pass and then we would be at the place where we would stay for the night. As we arrived at our destination for the day, we both were exhausted and I made a note in my mind that although a trek might be considered an easy trek, it still does not allow for any shortcuts and lifts and bridges. You walk each meter up and down on your own feet, what a surprise!
The night was cold (sleeping under a 5cm thick blanket AND the sleeping bag) and the accomodation very basic, but everyone was very friendly and the food/tea warming our bellies.
The night was cold (sleeping under a 5cm thick blanket AND the sleeping bag) and the accomodation very basic, but everyone was very friendly and the food/tea warming our bellies.
On the second day, the morning sky was clear and the rising sun gave us the first of so many amazing views onto the snow covered mountains. And it is these views that are so rewarding so many times during the day. Our hike continued to go uphill, with more stairs to come and at the end of the day, I was wishing to only go downhill from now on, big please! (In hindsight, I should be careful what I wish for.)
I remember the last view steps to walk towards our accomodation for the night and I was so painfully slow with every step being such an effort and then turning around the last corner and having out of the sudden this for me totally stunning view:
I remember the last view steps to walk towards our accomodation for the night and I was so painfully slow with every step being such an effort and then turning around the last corner and having out of the sudden this for me totally stunning view:
The mountains seem so close as if it would only take another days' hike and you could touch them.
During the day, it is actually very warm but as soon as the sun sets it becomes fairly cold. The night here was very cold. The "warm" water felt as warm as the cold water at other places. No way I would jump under such a cold shower. And I remember how fascinated I watched the water steaming off my shoulder when I used a cloth to wash myself. Curled up in our beds and again under layers of clothes and blankets, it felt so cold on my cheek when turning the head on the pillow, we both opted for beanies and the hoody of our fleece during the night.
The next day, we only had a quick hike up and then we walked downhill for most of the day. The day was rather cloudy and still very cold, so we descended rather quickly and arrived early afternoon at our destination for the day. The place where we stayed was very nice and also offered a quick warm shower. Surprisingly, the walls between the rooms were the thinnest I have ever come across. They were so thin, it felt like the people next door were in our room when talking to each other and I could hear even them pee across 2 rooms. Sjoe!!!
In the end however, it did not really mattered much as everyone was so tired from the days hike and hence, had a good sleep regardless of any noises around.
That next day, it paid me back wishing for a hike that is only going downhill. My legs were sore from muscle aches, it wasn't funny. I was walking down the stairs to the dining hall like an old woman. Turning around from one side to the other in bed made my thighs scream. Later that day, my knees were so sore they felt like being broken. The only thing I never wanted to do in my life again was going downhill. Well... we were still at about 2000m, so clearly that was not going to happen. Husband suggested that I should better take a pain killer but the powergirl in me refused. The next day, even that voice would be silenced, haha!
In the end however, it did not really mattered much as everyone was so tired from the days hike and hence, had a good sleep regardless of any noises around.
That next day, it paid me back wishing for a hike that is only going downhill. My legs were sore from muscle aches, it wasn't funny. I was walking down the stairs to the dining hall like an old woman. Turning around from one side to the other in bed made my thighs scream. Later that day, my knees were so sore they felt like being broken. The only thing I never wanted to do in my life again was going downhill. Well... we were still at about 2000m, so clearly that was not going to happen. Husband suggested that I should better take a pain killer but the powergirl in me refused. The next day, even that voice would be silenced, haha!
The following days were rather short 3 to 4 hour hikes through amazing valleys and beautiful little villages.
One day, while I was turtle-speed-like descending a path, four porters were overtaking me with such a speed, carrying maybe 30 to 40kg each on their back and wearing flip-flops! I really admired their strengh and agility making it look like a no-effort walk.
One day, while I was turtle-speed-like descending a path, four porters were overtaking me with such a speed, carrying maybe 30 to 40kg each on their back and wearing flip-flops! I really admired their strengh and agility making it look like a no-effort walk.
Overall, I would do such a hike again any time and we were really wandering about what makes hiking so rewarding. I would love to come back to Nepal one day and hike up to the Mount Everest Base Camp.
Maybe also a little note on the equipment needed for such a hike:
A water bottle is a must as you can fill up the bottle for little money with safe drinking water at almost every teahouse. We have seen some not so pretty, huge piles of plastic bottles along the way as every little piece of plastic or food wrapped in plastic that has been carried up the hill needs to be carried down again. Persinally, I carried down the butt of every cigarette I smoked. And also every snicker's plastic wrap or glass bottle or the like we purchased along the hike.
Another must-have is a towel, they are not provided at the overnight stays.
No ATM is available in the mountains and the higher you hike up the hills, the more expensive food and beverages are. Accomodation costs are generally really cheap in comparison to food prices.
Clothes wise, it is up to the individual and own preferences. I did the hike in trail running shoes and they were perfectly fine for this specific trek and temperatures. The only thing I would do differently the next time is having more tech shirts with me that dry quickly. You sweat a lot when moving but at every little break the winds were chilly so we constantly put on and off one to two layers of additional jackets. A not drying cotton shirt is simply not comfortable.
A water bottle is a must as you can fill up the bottle for little money with safe drinking water at almost every teahouse. We have seen some not so pretty, huge piles of plastic bottles along the way as every little piece of plastic or food wrapped in plastic that has been carried up the hill needs to be carried down again. Persinally, I carried down the butt of every cigarette I smoked. And also every snicker's plastic wrap or glass bottle or the like we purchased along the hike.
Another must-have is a towel, they are not provided at the overnight stays.
No ATM is available in the mountains and the higher you hike up the hills, the more expensive food and beverages are. Accomodation costs are generally really cheap in comparison to food prices.
Clothes wise, it is up to the individual and own preferences. I did the hike in trail running shoes and they were perfectly fine for this specific trek and temperatures. The only thing I would do differently the next time is having more tech shirts with me that dry quickly. You sweat a lot when moving but at every little break the winds were chilly so we constantly put on and off one to two layers of additional jackets. A not drying cotton shirt is simply not comfortable.
